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How to Make The Best Wet Shaving Soap (Recipe Included)

Shaving soap. It’s a big deal in the world of wet shavers, and now, having made it, I can see why.

I ran into some issues when I first started to research shaving soap. Stearic acid is considered to be one of the best ingredients to use at high percentages in a shaving soap – the stearic helps bind the bubbles together thickly, creaming a thick dense foam, rather than large bubbles.

Rich lather from palm-free shaving soap

But, stearic acid is palm-derived, and obviously if my business is entirely palm oil free, I can’t use palm-derived stearic.

(Is your target market just fine with palm derivatives? Enjoy this tutorial on making shaving soap with stearic acid.)

I was at a bit of a loss until, while researching other things, someone pointed out that Soy Wax is amazing in soap, and did we know that soy wax was actually 87% stearic acid?


So I set about testing recipes, substituting soy wax for stearic acid. After a few okay attempts, I have finally landed on this wet shaving soap recipe, and I honestly believe it could be the best shaving soap around.

The Best Wet Shaving Soap Recipe

This wet shaving soap recipe is a hot process recipe using dual lye. Please make sure you’re familiar with the processes of soapmaking before attempting this.

I used individual oval molds for this soap. It is more than full water, so while it is ready immediately, you should leave it to sit for a fortnight, in my opinion.

I used Soapmaker 3 to calculate the lye ratios – this recipe uses 60% KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) and 40% NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide), but you can use any cream soap calculator.

no palm shaving soap lather

Shaving Soap Formula Used

  • 325g Soy Wax (11.46 oz)
  • 195g Coconut Oil (6.97 oz)
  • 65g Cocoa Butter (2.3 oz)
  • 65g Castor Oil (2.3 oz)
  • 796g Water (28 oz)
  • 44g Sodium Hydroxide (1.55 oz)
  • 73g Potassium Hydroxide (2.61 oz)

Extra Additives for Shaving Soap

  • .2g of tussah silk (small pinch) (optional)
  • 10g Sodium Lactate
  • 20g Bentonite Clay

Note: Bentonite clay is considered to be the best because it is slipperier than other clays BUT… please look at the INCI of your clay when you buy it. Often Bentonite is the main component in a lot of cosmetic clays. Kaolin will also work if you have it, and not bentonite, but bentonite is my preference. It also tends to be hydrophobic, so mix it with a little of your oils.

Shaving Soap Fragrance

  • 15g (.5 oz) of fragrance oil – I used Country Spice from Kody’s Candles at just over 2% weight of oils. I wanted a light smell.

Prep Work for Making Shaving Soap

Split your cocoa butter into two equal portions and set one portion aside to be added after the cook. This is your superfat.

Weigh your oils and clay, and leave them to melt in a slow cooker (aka Crock-Pot). Soy wax may take a little while to melt, but it’s okay, hang in there.

In a lye safe jug, weigh out your water and add your finely chopped tussah silk and your sodium lactate. Weigh out both of your lyes (NaOH and KOH) and add them to the water, stirring until dissolved as usual.

Potassium Hydroxide Flakes


Soy Wax
Soy Wax, weighed out and ready for melting


Oils ready for melting
Solid Oils Ready For Melting


Melting Oils
Starting to happen!

Getting Started Making Shaving Soap

When your oils are melted, add the lye solution and begin to stick blend, stopping to stir with a spatula often. It will take a while to come to trace – I stick blend, then stir, then leave it alone for a few minutes, then repeat. Don’t worry if it starts to separate, a quick stick blend will bring it back together.

(In the market for the perfect stick blender, spatulas, and other soaping equipment? Here are Kenna’s favorite soapmaking tools.)

Once you hit trace, put a wet towel over the crock pot, put the lid back on, and leave it alone to cook.

Adding lyes
Adding the lye water. Dual lye keeps the soap softer, allowing for easier lathering with a shaving brush. I’ve used 60% KOH and 40% NaOH here.


Hot Process Separation
Separation of oils and water, right before the soap hit trace. My mix was very foamy at this point. I need a new stickblender I think.

Hot Process Shaving Soap

Hot process is a lot of fun, but requires you to pay attention! Keep an eye on your soap and try to prevent yourself from stirring it too often. The goal of the full water is to give you soap at the end which is smooth and manageable.

At this point you can test your soap to see if it is done cooking. Use Modern Soapmaking’s guide for properly pH testing soap. Done cooking? You can melt and add your cocoa butter. (Hot process soap that hasn’t fully cooked will be fine. It will just take a bit longer to cure.)

Your batter should still be fairly liquid at this stage. Mine was a little lumpy where I stirred the slightly-more-cooked edges through. I wasn’t aiming for true vaseline stage, because I wanted my soap to still be fluid.

Starting the cook
Wet tea towel over the slow cooker to hopefully keep the batter fairly fluid.


The soap batter was slightly lumpy. I could have stick blended it smooth at this stage, but I didn’t want to push it to go any thicker. Testing showed it didn’t need to cook any longer.


Stirring in cocoa butter superfat
Adding the cocoa butter superfat. You can see the slight skin forming on the soap. I just hand mixed like mad.


Forming a skin
All stirred through and ready for molding.

Pouring Shaving Soap Formula Into Containers

Once your superfat is mixed in, you can turn your crock pot off and leave the soap to cool down a little before adding the fragrance. You don’t want it too cool, however, otherwise it will thicken up and make molding harder.

Using a spoon, spoon it into individual molds, or shaving soap tins.

If you’re using tins, please make sure that your tins are stainless steel, just in case. JUST IN CASE.

Leave it somewhere safe and dry to cool.

Because I used more than full water, I’ll leave these shaving soaps to cure for 2-3 weeks before use. Hot process soaps technically don’t need curing, but I honestly believe all soap is better when it’s a few weeks old.

Shaving Soap Lather

For best results, I recommend using a shaving brush and bowl to lather this soap up. It gives amazing lather, very similar to shaving cream, which is stable and thick.

This wet shaving soap gives a beautiful creamy lather.
This wet shaving soap gives a beautiful creamy lather.

The Best Shaving Soap recipe is an original formula created by Veronica Foale for Modern Soapmaking. It is palm-free, and uses a 7% superfat. To make this recipe vegan-friendly, omit the Tussah Silk. Feel free to share!

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217 Responses

  1. Thank you SO much for this! All my soap is vegetarian and palm-free and I’ve really struggled with a viable option to stearic. I’d like to see how this works with my existing recipe. Do you think you could do a straight 1:1 sub of soy wax for stearic acid?

    1. Yes, I suspect you could. The end result would be different – soy wax is 87% stearic, not 100%, but it would be very close. Run it through a lye calc first though 🙂

    2. Did you ever make this shaving soap using stearic acid instead of soy wax? I tried running Veronica’s recipe through Saffire Blue’s calculator, replacing the soy wax with stearic acid, but the water amount showed the amount in ml. not grams. I would like to make this soap but am getting discouraged using the soap calculators.

        1. Hi Veronica,
          I would love to try this recipe but when I put it in my soapcalc it gives me different amount of water, only 222g instead of your amount. Why do you use so much water please?
          Thank you!

          1. The high water amount makes the soap more fluid and easier to get into molds. I prefer a firmer soap so I use less water. Your shaving soap will turn out either way.

        2. Can you tell me how much this formula will make (ounces?) I have 4 oz stainless steel tins but I don’t think they hold a full 4 oz. and if it does it would be right to the rim.
          Patricia Rankin

          1. Hey, Patricia,
            Keep in mind that tins are rated by volume (fl ounces) rather than weight (ounces). However, solid/semi-solid soap is sold (in the US) by weight. A 4 oz container may or may not hold 4 ounces *by weight*.

    3. i think stearic acid is pretty much always derived from palm? i could be wrong, but thats what im coming up against

      1. sorry this was meant for poster above wanting to make palm and vegan product but use stearic…
        anyways thanks for this recipe, I’m going to try it tonight!!

      2. I’ve found a steric acid derived from rape seed oil and am midway through making a version of this recipe with the soy swapped out for steric acid. I’ve reduced the steric to 280gr and added 45 gr of hemp seed oil. Its currently sat in my slow cooker and I’m fighting the urge to peak. I’ve made 1,000s of bars of cold process but this recipe is thefirsttime I tried hot process.

        FWIW this is experiment number 8 with modifications to this recipe. Fingers crossed, as I’ve so far broken several spatulas trying to get failed batches out and had one volcano. So much fun.

    4. Hot process DOES need curing, the same as cold process. Hot process speeds saponification, not cure time. The two are not the same.

      1. If you calculate the lye to oils correctly, your soap should finish it’s saponification in 2-3 days tops. The only reason for curing soaps is to let them harden (water evaporating}. Unless your calculations are way off – the soap process should be done within a week at the most – hot process soaps are ready as soon as they cool off – as do soaps that go through gel stage. It is a misconception that curing for weeks makes soap ‘milder’ or less alkaline. As I said – if you calculated correctly, there should be no lye left after 2-3 days – a week at the most.

        1. @Ernestine Farr No, you are NOT correct! Deana is 100% right in what she said! I have been making soaps for 20 years, and done my research. Please do more research on your own before keep on repeating this incorrect statement of yours, and read what Kevin Dunn says, and go deeper in this matter before repeating this!

          I absolutely hate for others that are more new to this, to take your words as gospel, when you are claiming these things. It really does not do you credit to be so insisting when chemistry proves you 100% wrong.

  2. Kenna,
    A friend shared your posting on shaving soap. I don’t have a problem with Palm, and I happen to have lots of Stearic Acid. I don’t have Soy Wax. Can I use the formula you shared and just substitute Stearic Acid for the Soy Wax amount?
    Thank you,

    1. The stearic acid – or in my case, soy wax (87% stearic) – is what binds all the bubbles together into a dense tight foam. Without the stearic component, the soap lather won’t be as dense, or protective. I really do recommend using high stearic in a shaving soap.

  3. Thank you so much!!! I have lots of customers asking about shaving soap and haven’t had the time to investigate it; can’t wait to give this a try!

  4. Hi Veronica, love your soaps, I’d like to give this a try, unfortunately where I live there is no soy wax but I’m able to get stearic acid instead, how could I substitute the soy wax for the SA in this case? By the way I live in Latin America and we don’t have orangutans, thanks

    1. Hi Anna, yes, you could definitely use pure stearic instead of soy wax. Make sure to recalculate the lye amounts first as they’ll be slightly different.

  5. Hello. This is wonderful, as I’ve thinking about making a shaving soap but everything I found has had a palm product or two. But the next question is where can one find reasonable but chic shaving cream tins or bowls? I’m going to try this recipe as soon as I can find nice bowls….

    Thank you for posting it!

    1. Sorry, I can’t help with bowls/tins – I’m still searching for good ones. Probably going to give up and ask my mother (she’s a ceramicist) to make them for me, but then that doubles the prices, so.

      1. US Plastic corp sells low profile jars of all sorts. If you go with HPDE ones, they are very chemical resistant and you can label them nicely. Not as fancy as a tin or a ceramic bowl, though

  6. Thanks for this alternative recipe. I made shaving soap about a month ago using stearic acid, and it took a ton!
    Also, the soap still feels slightly sticky on top. I hope the soy wax produces a drier, harder soap.

    1. I’ve found that it does, but how hard the bar is will really depend on what ratios of KOH to NaOH you use. Maybe play around with that? I’ve really liked the results with 40% NaOH and 60% KOH – I get a bar which feels hard, but is still soft enough to load a shaving brush with easily.

      1. Do you think this could be used without the brush? I am thinking about using it for myself in the shower for my legs.

      2. Instead of tins, plastic, or purchasing more expensive ceramic containers, I use ceramic coffee mugs bought at secondhand stores:)

  7. Thank you! Thank you! I had been kicking this around on the shave soap board for a while & have not had time to really sit and experiment with it. I hate that I can’t find stearic that is palm free but again yay!!!!!!

      1. Is this just the same as the soy wax used for candle making? Can you recommend a good source? Thanks so much for this recipe. I can’t wait to try it.

  8. Hi,
    Thanks for your generosity in sharing your recipe. I have cold processed a number of different shaving recipes. They have all been nice and very hard and moisturizing but have all lacked that thick lather. My question is whether you can cold process your recipe? Or must it be hot processed? I am not a fan of hot process and wonder if I can get around it or not. I would like to give your recipe a try. Thanks again.

    1. I haven’t tried to CP this recipe, and I’m not sure how well it would work – soy wax accelerates trace quite quickly and pure stearic at 50% would be unworkable in CP.

      But if you used full water and worked fast, I can’t see why it couldn’t be attempted! If you do, let me know? I’d like to know how it goes, and I’m not sure I’ll have a chance to try it for myself for a while.

    2. Soyawax is great in CP soap. You just gotta get the right one. there are like 6 different main types of soyawax. If youve used beeswax even at 1% in CP or even the dreaded and challenging candelilla (WHICH I LOVE!) then soyawax is just another of those challenges. Mix at high temp and dump in individual containers with plastic wrap followed immediately to create flat surface. Im going to try the soft soya wax used for massage candles because this doesnt actually harden. Now my 2 cents on this palm thing, sorry if i highjack. But i love my palm recipes. I dont see what the big hype is. Just another trend if you ask me. My palm is sustainable and EVERYTHING we do damages the earth. I cant believe people are so stuck up on palms!!! BUT they dont see their everyday minuscule routines they think is so important is actually doing more damage then stupid palm trees and apes. LMAO! PLASTIC NEVER GOES AWAY and its being used disgustingly. The media throws anything in peoples faces to redirect their attention. As long as it doesnt point to the DuPonts who MADE SURE cannabis (that can replace every single textile making it biodegradable eco friendly and can also replace fossil fuels, you know the blood of the earth you pump in your car while worrying about a palm tree! PPFFTTT!) would always be illegal so plastic can overcome. So next time you think going palm free is helping the environment as you use and throw away your plastics, or fill another lip balm tube with crappy balm, think about the plastic. The stuff that isnt organic. The stuff the earth can never come back from. The stuff you throw in the recylcing bin like a sugar pill placebo. you think it makes a difference when most recycling plants end up throwing it away because they cannot recycle every piece of plastic or bags. How about people demand that the corporations start to fund a recycling program for the poison theyre pumping out and selling as we fund our deaths???? Like the plastic island. How dare soapmakers want to go palm free.. go plastic free… ignorance is the highest form of child/earth abuse. ugh..im done. thanks for listening.

      1. Thank You! my thoughts exactly when I see people drinking out of water bottles and using plastic lotion containers at craft fairs but then they are so concerned with not using palm to save the earth!!!

      2. I was very disappointed while reading this post on the various ways one rationalizes using palm. It obviously is a personal choice on whether to use palm oils or their derivatives, but it is very irresponsible to post information that is false and inaccurate. Whom ever is reading these posts, please research palm oil and the negative effects it causes everyone in this world. After educating yourself, then make a decision on whether palm is right for you.

        1. Deanna,
          What inaccuracies did you find in this post? We pride ourselves on sharing accurate info with our community.

          The recipe given is *palm-free*. Admitting that palm and its derivatives are popular in shaving soap and then offering an alternative isn’t “rationalizing using palm.”

          And yes, everyone has to make their choice. We aren’t going to get into that can of worms here. But, if there are factual errors in the post, we do want to correct them.

      1. Hey, Chris,
        The issue you are likely to run into is that formulas high in stearic acid have a high melting point, so without added heat, you risk uneven saponification.

  9. Hi Veronica,
    Thank you for the tutorial. Once you use a crockpot for soap you won’t be able to use it for food anymore? Yes?

  10. Thanks for such detailed instructions! Something I’ve wanted to make for awhile.
    I think I missed something, though. If one is palm-free, yet soy wax is 87% stearic acid (derived from palm), how does that mean I can stay palm free using it?
    Thanks for the great info!!

  11. Hi again! I meant to ask about the sodium lactate. Can that be optional as well? What is the purpose of this ingredient? Thank you!!

    1. Hi Julia,

      Because this recipe uses lots of water, the sodium lactate helps both with keeping the batter smooth and liquid while hot, and helping it set up nicely when it’s cold.

      I really do find it helps.

      Hope that helps!

  12. Good morning, beautiful tutorial.

    Any chance you know of another wax other than soy that is high in Stearic and palm free? Yes, I am being lazy and do not wish to research. 🙂 Soy is generally a GMO product, and I am a GMO free company.

    1. The next best thing would be kokum butter, as it’s about 55% stearic. That’s what I use in my PF wet shaving soap for the same reason. 🙂

      1. Is it possible to get a recipe with kokum butter from you? I live in Norway and want to make a shaving soap for my bf, but don’t want to use stearic acid and can’t get my hands on the right type of soy wax. I happen to have kokum butter, so I got so exited reading your comment 🙂 Please let me know.

        1. You can find out by researching the stearic acid content of oils using a lye calculator. For instance, Soap Calc: http://soapcalc.net/calc/OilList.asp

          Double check with your supplier. Using kokum as a straight substitute will not render as creamy of a lather (I use more Kokum in my recipe than Veronica used Soy Wax in this recipe), but it’s the closest you can get. This goes for any other substitution.

  13. Jo you are super duper
    I love your palm free article. I originate from a palm growing area devoid of endengered animals but, have some customers who are sensitive to the Palm issue. Your recipe would be a welcome addition to my product line. It was nice being part of the Master batching class at the Nyah studio.

    1. Hi Akosua! Thanks for visiting, I’m glad you enjoyed the class at Nyah studio – I had a ton of fun teaching it. 🙂 Most of the tutorials here on Modern Soapmaking are palm free, this particular one was contributed by Veronica. You can see who is contributing an article by looking at the Author bio at the end of each post. 😉 Thanks for coming by!

  14. This sounds good. I’ve never tried HP soap but I will bookmark the page to come back to. Could I ask which soy wax you used? I have three different soy waxes (I make candles) so wouldn’t want to use the wrong one.

    1. Fully hydrogenated soybean oil is usually the same thing as soy wax, double check with your supplier by asking what the stearic acid content it. 😉

  15. Is 28oz of water correct for your recipe? I tried it in the saffire blue calculator and got just over 8oz. I know there is a range, but 28 just seems like a huge range for the amount of oil. I am unfamiliar with using both lye’s together, but I have been seeing a lot of it lately. I’ve only ever done CP and an excited to learn something new.

    1. I used water as 45% of the recipe to keep the batter fluid and workable through the cook. It looks like a lot, but it will give you smooth batter you can mould almost like CP batter. The sodium lactate will help with hardening and unmoulding the next day, and then a week or two on a curing shelf to lose extra water before you sell/give them away. You can use them immediately, but I like the feel of the lather best after a week or two.

      1. Hi Veronica,

        How is the 45% calculated?

        650 g of oils (325+195+65+65) with 45% (water as a % of oil weight) = 292.5 g water. Where did 796 g of water come from?

        Thank You,

  16. Hi there,
    Thanks for the lovely tutorial….now is there a place where I can learn how to use the lye calculator for this dual lye type of soap….I do not have cocoa butter on hand and really want to make this soap but am afraid things will be off If I just do a straight sub for Kokum of Illipe butter which I have….thanks a bunch!!


  17. Hey Veronica, gorgeous to see you here. Have been making shave soaps for a while using Shea/ Castor & Clay CP and felt inspired to attempt HP today after seeing this marvelous blog. Have used higher percentages of Cocoa & Shea Butter instead of Soy for similar reasons (GMO) . Will get hubby to try it in a couple of days.

  18. As an experienced DE wet shaver my concern is the clay additive. Most commercial premium shaving soaps and creams (I.e. Poraso, Arko, Cella, Mitchell’s, Williams, etc) do not use clays for slip as they add unnecessary dulling to the blade. With your experience I wonder you might refine your recipe. Kudos to all your efforts. Please let me know your thoughts.

    1. I tend to agree with this about clay, Ernie, but I do know several wet shavers (including a couple who also formulate & sell) who enjoy shaving soaps that contain bentonite and/or french green clay. I think it comes down to personal preference – replacing blades in a GSR/sharpening a blade slightly more often vs. snagging a little extra slip (& the purported benefits of clay in skincare) with every shave.

  19. This looks awesome! My other half buys that shaving stuff from The Art of Shaving, and its sooooo expensive! Any idea how long you had to cook this for? I don’t usually HP since my soap lab isn’t located at my home and I have to sit and wait for it, awful I know, haha. Thanks so much for the tutorial!

  20. I’d love to try making this. My first attempt at shaving soap was basically a CP recipe with bentonite clay added. Pretty useless for shaving but nice in the shower. I’ve gathered together my ingredients for this but struggled a little with the soy wax. My usual supplier of soaping stuff stocks a number of different types so I went for Eco Soy CB135 which was approved for skin use and says it is pure soy with no additions. I contacted the supplier, who contacted their wholesaler, who contacted the manufacturer (!) re the percentage of steric acid. The answer came back that they didn’t provide this information but that it would be less than 5%. That seems to be counter to soy wax being high in steric. Still going to go ahead and try a small test batch but not sure how well it will work. How crucial is the steric acid?

    1. The stearic acid content is the most crucial part of the recipe. If you are in the USA, you will be better off purchasing Soybean Shortening/Hydrogenated Soybean Oil.

      1. Kenna,
        Are you saying you can substitute equal amounts of Soybean Shortening/Hydrogenated Soybean Oil for the soy wax?

  21. I’m getting ready to make The Best Shaving Soap Recipe. What does “Zap test the soap” mean?
    Amber Noel

    1. Sorry! Just caught this. Touch a little bit of the cooked soap to your tongue. If it tastes like soap, it’s okay. If it zaps (like licking a battery), it needs more cooking.

  22. Just something to think about ” 93 percent of soy is genetically modified.”
    Here is an article to just consider when negating palm. Many would also argue that the women who cultivate the massive amounts of shea butter are like slaves but in many areas it saves their lives. I am not posting to get into a debate or to down your soap in ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM The shave soap looks awesome but I wonder about the soy – any other suggestions besides soy or palm?

    1. Hi Eileen,

      As mentioned in the comments above, you can also look to Kokum butter, which is what I use for the same reasons. Veronica was able to source GMO-free soy wax that she was comfortable using. 🙂 If you choose to sub palm-derived stearic acid or the soy wax, you will need to tweak the formula to reach a higher stearic acid content (Kokum, for example, has almost half the amount of stearic as soy.) This article might help in wrangling the fatty acids: http://www.modernsoapmaking.com/the-most-popular-fatty-acid-profiles-in-soapmaking/

      IMO, you need at least 30% (preferably higher) stearic acid in your total recipe’s fatty acid profile to make a killer shaving soap. Hope that helps.

  23. Hi,
    That looks so creamy! But I was wondering if we must use both lyes. Can we just use NaOH? Even if it won’t be quite as creamy?
    So, I’d redo the recipe in the lye calculator just with NaOH and do all the rest as described. Would that work?

  24. Need help. I new to using a cream soap calc and tried doing this recipe but substituting the soy wax with stearic acid as I have a ton of it on hand. The calculator also told me to add glycerin…Any help is greatly appreciated!

  25. Hi! I tried making this soap yesterday. I think I went wrong somewhere. I followed exactly the measures you had, but when the soap batter was cooking on high in the crock pot, it ended up getting super lumpy and unworkable very fast, around 15 minutes later. It was still zapping. In order to obtain workable soap, I had to pour in two full glasses of water (I could not say how much in mL) and stick blend it. I did omit the sodium lactate. Is this what went wrong? How long should I have left it to cook? And as for superfatting with cocoa butter, do you put in the whole amount in the lye calculator or divide it? Thank you!

    1. I cook on low usually, it’s slower, but seems to end up being easier in the long run. And yes, sodium lactate helps with fluidity in HP soap.

      I put the whole amount in the lye calc for the cocoa butter 🙂

      1. Thank you for the reply! I guess when I make this recipe in the future, I’ll take into account the amount of water mentioned plus two full glasses since I’m not using sodium lactate.

        Good luck with your soaping ventures 🙂

  26. Hello i’d love to try this recipe and was wondering if I could sub the soy wax for steric acid instead? If so how much steriac acid would I use ? I don’t have soy wax on hand and it’s very inconvenient for me to get it but I have steriac acid on hand and can obtain it easily. Please advise thank you.

  27. Thank you Veronica for the very prompt answer. How much steric acid in ounces would I use for your recipe ?? I’m not good with percentages yet, getting there but was never any good at math LOL Thank you so much for sharing I can’t wait to try this !! 🙂

    1. I’m not sure in ounces – because you’ll have to redo the lye calculations, it’s best to input it into a lye calculator using stearic instead of soy wax. The calculator will do all the maths for you 🙂

  28. *Thanks* for sharing.

    Please could you specify the soap volume obtained with this recipe? is it possible to replace soy wax with beeswax?

  29. Hello, I have some doubts:
    1.- Why do you separe cocoa butter in two pieces? in the recipe I only find one reference to add it.
    2.- What are the estimated times in crock pot? just to have an idea since I never did the zap testing.
    3.- Is the Lactosa really important? I read it could give allergies.
    4.- Is it straightforward or it’s easy to fail obtaining an usable shaving soap?

    1. I separate the cocoa butter in order to superfat with cocoa butter. I add the second portion after the cook, when the lye is entirely neutralised and won’t turn the excess cocoa butter into soap.

      I cooked for about an hour on medium/low.

      The sodium lactate will help keep a fluid batter during the cook, helping with moulding the soap.

      It’s a fairly straightforward recipe, but maybe not the simplest recipe if you’re just beginning 🙂

  30. You mentioned the use of that much water to keep the batter smooth, instead of the “mashed potatoes” that happens with that much stearic acid. But, does it ever cure?

    What’s the consistency after a day or two?

  31. Hi I made yhis recipe this morning it looked like yours still liquid like a cake batter I poured it in molds but worry it wont set up so I can un mold it. Also got a little on my table I wiped it up with my hand an ran it under the water it didn’t soap up does it take time to soapafie. I did not do the zap test due to the consistency. Thanks Lori

  32. I just wanted to let you know the soap turned out beautifully. I will be adding this to my line of products.
    Lori Valadez @
    The Enchanted Wardrobe

  33. Hi Veronica. I am very interested in trying this shaving soap. Was thinking of purchasing a 3 quart crock pot. My question is why do you use both
    Potassium hydroxide to as well as sodium hydroxide? Would this recipe not work with just trying sodium hydroxide?

    1. I use both in order to keep the final soap softer for good lather. You can indeed use straight NaOH, but you’ll get a harder bar, and have to work a little harder to work up a lather. That’s all.

      1. I can’t thank you enough for your very informative and interesting site. You are so helpful and your site is one of my favorites. Thanks for your swift response.