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Using Hot Process Soapmaking for Production Soaping

Like many of you, I learned how to make soap using the cold process method. My soap story actually started with a large jar of coconut oil that I wanted to find a use for, and after a google search of “uses for coconut oil” learned that it is a wonderful¬†oil to use in soap.

Needless to say, I found Soap Queen TV and never looked back.

After a few batches of basic cold process soaps, I wanted to step it up and learn to swirl and play around with various fragrances. And this is where I met my first set of soapy frustrations: a column pour with 5 colors that morphed into different colors, plus a disaster with an accelerating lilac fragrance oil that destroyed my plans for a wonderful butterfly swirl.

In my research, I came across a method of soapmaking called hot process. Hot process soapmaking sounded fun but looked oh-so rustic, which was not what I wanted to do.  I gave it a try anyway.

Here we are,¬†several hundred batches of hot process soap¬†later!¬†I am here to tell you that if you think hot process soaps must be “rustic” like I did, you are mistaken. Many soapmakers are creating¬†colorful, swirly and gorgeous hot process soaps.

(The soaps I have shown in this article are my own, simply because I have the rights to my own work!  There are, however, a slew of other hot process soapmakers out there creating far more stunning soaps.)

Hot process¬†soapmaking¬†is on a roll in the soapmaking world, and many soapmakers are rocking out¬†this method. There is a huge¬†list of benefits to hot process soapmaking, but what makes it’s even better is that¬†it is¬†a fantastic method of soapmaking for¬†large batch production!

Ridgeway Soapworks Beer Hot Process Soap
Ridgeway Soapworks Beer Hot Process Soap

Before I dive into what makes hot process soapmaking awesome for production, I would like to clarify what I mean by hot process soapmaking. The hot process soapmaking method uses heat to cook the soap, or in other words, to accelerate the saponification process. If you make cold process soap and insulate your soap to force the soaps to gel, you are mimicking hot process soapmaking but it is much slower than hot process and has a cooler temperature overall. The chemical reaction between oils and lye that creates soap is exothermic, meaning it creates heat. However, when you add an external heat source to the mix, the saponification timeline is sped up.

You may be wondering at this point who is writing this and why. I’m Molly, and I am not an expert in hot process soapmaking. I actually am not a fan of the word “expert” at all because we are all students (of soapmaking in this case.) Some of us are just a little bit further along in our education than others! I will never be done learning about soapmaking for as long as it remains a passion and my business! I do, however, love to make soap, love to research & learn,¬†and love to write about soapmaking. That is why I am here: to share what I have learned about hot process soapmaking with all of you!

Benefits of Hot Process Soapmaking for Production

So, let’s get back to business: what are the benefits of HP and why should production soapers pay attention?

Hot process soaps require a shorter cure time.

Faster curing is a benefit that many people are aware of when it comes to hot process soapmaking. Hot process soaps are fully saponified before they go into the mold, but they need time to harden up before packaging. The amount of time varies based on how much water you use in your formulas. I find that two full weeks of curing for my hot process soaps is plenty. (I use a 35% lye solution.)

That is a lot less time than the normal cold process cure time of four to six weeks! My wholesale clients love the shorter wait time when I need to whip up a new batch. Plus, if you create single color hot process soap (i.e. no swirls), you can water discount further and have your soap ready to package in less than a week!

Hot process soapmakers get to ditch their ricing and acceleration worries due to fragrance.

This one is HUGE for me!¬†I love to try new fragrances and hot process soapmakers really luck out in this regard. For hot process soapmaking, it does not matter if a fragrance causes issues in cold process soapmaking! Why? In hot process soapmaking, the fragrance is added to the soap once it’s already saponified! Every fragrance acts exactly the same in hot process: hoorah!

Hot process soapmaking allow you to choose your superfat oil/butter.

In cold process soapmaking, the lye is an equal opportunity saponifier: the lye doesn’t care what you want the superfat to be, it’s going to choose for you. In hot process soapmaking, you can add specific superfat oils after the soap is fully saponified!

I like to add my favorite skin loving oil to my hot process soaps, and doing so allows a particular oil to remain in its natural form and not be changed by saponification. Being able to do this is also great for label appeal. My favorite oils (which are usually butters) to add after the cook as my superfat are shea butter, cocoa butter and mango butter. However, you can add any oil that you like as your superfat! I actually add a whole bunch of goodies after the cook Рgoat milk, clay, colloidal oatmeal and yogurt.

A Ridgeway Soapworks Hot Process Bar Featuring a Beautiful Swirl - it can be done!
A Ridgeway Soapworks Hot Process Bar Featuring a Beautiful Swirl – it can be done!

Hot process soaps are less prone to colorant morphing.

Some cosmetic micas and natural colorants can change in cold process soapmaking due to the high pH level. Some colorants drastically change, while others fade or disappear. In hot process soapmaking, you add your colorants after the cook so they skip out on saponification and don’t tend to change!

Cleaning up after a hot process soapmaking session is a cakewalk.

Cleaning up after hot process soapmaking is a dream compared to cold process soapmaking. I take everything I used, put it in the largest container I used, and let it soak for 15 minutes. Drain, rinse and repeat! No oily residue to clean off like with cold process soap, because the hot process soap is fully saponified! Time is money in production soaping and a fast clean-up is efficient!

Limitations of Hot Process Soapmaking

Now, no method is perfect, and hot process soapmaking does have its drawbacks! I still do a little cold process soapmaking every now and then for the some soaps. However, that does not mean everyone has to, but I have found that cold process soapmaking is more consistently reliable in some situations.

A soleseife soap made with the cold process method of soapmaking
A soleseife soap made with the cold process method of soapmaking

Struggles with Hot Process Soapmaking Salt Bars & Soleseife

I know a few soapmakers who make great salt bars with the hot process method, but I have only had struggles here. If you are not familiar with soleseife, it is a technique of using salt water as your lye water (either ocean water or by mixing salt into water yourself). Soleseife soaps are rock hard and have a wonderful lather.

Salt bars refers to handmade soaps where you add a fair quantity of salt to your raw soap batter. When I have tried to make hot process soap with a high salt content, the soap got very hard quickly and I had difficulty molding the soap in a loaf mold.

A cold process soap made in a detailed individual mold
A cold process soap made in a detailed individual mold

Struggles with Hot Process Soapmaking in Intricate Detailed Molds

Using detailed molds like the one in the photo above require a very fluid soap batter so that each little nook & cranny fills with soap. This can be quite difficult to do with hot process soap. I have tried to use detailed silicone molds for hot process many times, and while the soaps came out okay, I still prefer to use the cold process method for these types of soaps.

Limitations with Hot Process Soapmaking and Batch Size

With hot process soapmaking, just like cold process soapmaking, you will be limited in your batch size based on the container you use. However, in hot process soapmaking, the container needs to be able to be heated!

If you make hot process soap in a crockpot, you will be limited by the size of your crockpot and/or how many crockpots you have. However, there are large turkey roaster crock pots that can be used. The downfall is that they are expensive, and you will again be limited to how big they are and how many you have.

Hot process soap can be made in other types of pots though. I personally use a large steel lobster pot! As I continue to make larger batches of hot process soap, I can purchase bigger pots. The limit for me will be how heavy of a batch I can make and lift, which is also a challenge in production soaping using the cold process method.

So, let’s recap on why hot process soapmaking is great for production soaping:¬†you can turn hot process soaps around quickly, you get extremely predictable results when using fragrance and colors, and your expensive luxury oils (or other additives) retain their skin-loving properties by avoiding saponification.

Next up, I’ll dive into the various methods of hot process soapmaking, the benefits of each method, which methods are best for big batch production soapmaking, and what I recommend starting with if you have not done hot process¬†yet!

Have some hot process soapmaking goodness you want to see? Leave me a comment below and let me know what you’d love to learn about hot process soapmaking!

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94 Responses

  1. I’ve only read about hot process, haven’t gotten my nerve up yet to try. Do you use sugars in your hot process to make it more liquid like a cold process? I’ve read where you can add maple syrup or a boiled simple sugar syrup to achieve the texture of a cold process.

    1. I do add sugar to my water (before mixing with lye), however, my intent is to boost bubbles in the lather. I use sodium lactate (also added to the water) and yogurt (added after the cook) to help with fluidity. My HP soaps are as hard and as dense as my CP soaps so I have not noticed any difference in that area. However, one does have more options with the tops of CP soaps, however, I have come to love my HP soap tops. My next post will be a tutorial on how to make HP soap in the crockpot. Thanks for the comment!!

      1. I very much appreciate the article on hot process soapmaking. I have been doing it as well the cool process. I use palm kernel oil. My question is can I plod this product?

      2. Hi Molly,

        Is there an alternative to using yoghurt if I wanted to make vegan soaps?

        Thank you so much for the informative blog


        1. Hi Adam, Make your own coconut yoghurt at home. It works really well in place of airy yoghurt. Allow it to be room temperature when you add it to the HP soap.
          Susi Messenger
          SoYummy Soap
          Adelaide South Australia

        2. sodium lactate or sodium citrate. Also good for soothing out homemade mac & cheese sauce so they on’t separate..

  2. Yes!! I have been wanting to try HP but I love me some swirls so I would love to see a nice tutorial on that too! Thank you and look forward to reading more of your articles !! *happy dance*

    1. Thanks Tosha! I will definitely be talking about HP swirling in future posts, as that is something I love to do! Have a great day! – Molly

  3. Oooh, I can’t wait to read your advice and techniques on doing hot process. I made my first batch last Saturday (cold process) and am already feeling inpatient about waiting 8 weeks for it to cure. I have been buying lye soap for myself from farmer’s markets and online sources for a couple of years to help with my sensitive skin and sensitivity to chemical fragrances. My intent in this soap journey I have started is to make my soap recipes all natural. I already have some paprika in olive oil to infuse to use in a few weeks or so. ūüėČ I love to experiment and play and create so I’m excited about this new hobby. I want to be able to make this soap so my family can have the benefits I’ve had as I’ve only been able to “afford” handmade soap for myself. They are already eager and waiting too! ūüôā

    Anyways, as I first said – CAN’T WAIT for your info on hot process. I like the rustic look but I like the designs and play of cold process!

    1. Hi Leslie – One of the best parts of learning how to soap via CP and HP is that you can then choose which method is best for the soaps that you want to make. Thanks for reading and I hope that you find the future posts informative.

  4. I have made hot process oven process as I don’t have a spare crock pot. I love this method but I have a hard time with swirls. It always looks so lumpy. So I definitely second the motion about a tutorial on swirls. The pictures that you show above are so pretty! Thanks!

  5. Great post, Molly! I’m so encouraged by your beautiful HP swirls. I’ve made crockpot HP before with sodium lactate and it was much more fluid than I expected. Can’t wait to try HP swirling! I’ve recently moved to Colorado and have had problems with CPOP in the high altitude. The soap boiled slightly and ended up with small bubbles through out. I’m wondering if High altitude HP will give me any problems?

    1. I find that it’s the silicone molds that cause it to bubble when i do CPOP, and i’m at sea level.

    2. Janie:
      I too live in Colorado (6000 feet). I have only done CPOP a couple times, but quickly learned that you need to decrease your oven temp. (I went from 170 to 150 degrees and had no issues.)

  6. What beautiful swirls! I like making HP soap, but have never been able to do anything like swirls. So excited to see what methods you use!

  7. I have been lusting over Molly’s soap for a while – thank you Kenna for hiring her. Can’t wait to read more about this ūüôā

  8. Thank you for the HP love, Molly! I’m an exclusive Hot Process soapmaker and i absolutely love it. I don’t do intricate swirls per se, but i do a lovely marble effect that shows through even when it’s a single color. I’ve used sodium lactate before but in my case it often makes it TOO fluid and won’t give me that marbling i desire. People are often surprised when i tell them i do hot process! I’m looking forward to your HP swirl post. ūüôā

  9. I have such a love/hate relationship with hot process. I think I am going to give it a try again and not give up. I love cold process but sometimes lack the patience it takes for cure time.
    Thanks for the article! I look forward to many more..

  10. I would love some tips and tricks to hot process soaping! My partner loves the look of cold process but I love the convenience of hot process. Our biggest problem is we exclusively use column molds and with hot process we end up with gaps since it’s not as fluid as the cold process. I hope you can stear us in the right direction so we can both get what we want. ūüôā

    1. HHmm, I have not used a column mold for HP, however, if you can get your soap fluid enough, I think you can still make a great soap. I will try to cover this in a future post! Thanks for stopping by.

    2. I also use column mold for some of my soaps and I HP. You just have to bang the bejeezus out of them. I clip the size with binder clips and give them 6-8 decent whacks on the table. That usually does the trick.

  11. I love that you add Hot Process Soap Making ..I struggle with it but need for a few HARD to work with fragrance that are 2 of my best sellers. I cant wait to more articles. WOOT WOOT

  12. Thank you for sharing this invaluable information. I have recently made my first batch of hot process soap in a large crock pot, and added embeds to it. It did come out good for the first try, but have been wanted to expand in hot process in other ways. I have seen others do cold process, oven processed soaps, and the colors seems to be brighter, which is what I am striving to do. Keep colors vibrant. Do you have any recommendations on CPOP soap, and the molds that can be used for it?
    Thank you and I look forward to learning and growing in my own soapmaking business.

    1. Thanks Ellen! I don’t do much CPOP these days (that ended on a fateful day when my husband decided to preheat the oven to 450 to make a frozen pizza), however, my next few posts will cover the various methods of HP that you can use.

    2. I do mostly CPOP. I use both wooden molds and silicone molds. For my “regular” CPOP soap batches, I use a wooden slab mold, but I have used silicone molds for “special” soaps (shaving soap, for example). A previous poster mentioned getting a rough, kinda bubbly textured top with using silicone molds to CPOP. I concur. The shaving soaps I have CPOPed all have a different texture. But when I do regular CP using a silicone mold…so smooth! (Wooden CPOPing with my wooden molds, those are always smooth too.)

      Great article, Molly! Congrats on being a contributor here.

  13. I’ve strictly been a CP soaper for 15 years, but have often thought about giving HP a try. I too research constantly, make over 30 pounds of soap nearly every day, have to cut (made extremely easier and faster thanks to my SoapHutch log splitter/cutter) and put new batches to bed and everything else that goes with soaping. Not only that, there’s a family to take care of and household duties. So, there’s unfortunately time to play around with new ideas. After reading this well written article, I believe I’ll give myself a few “days off” and give it a try. Thank you very much for sharing, I truly appreciate your perspective and knowledge sharing.

    1. Wow – 30 pounds a day!! That is awesome. I hope that you find the HP posts helpful and that you are able to take some time to test out new techniques.

  14. All of the reasons I love to HP, you’ve listed. I love my HP soap! I’ve been doing some intricate swirls for quite some time with very fluid batter. I’ve had to get pretty inventive using my slab molds, but it’s so much fun. The best plus is choosing you SF!
    This is an excellent article!!!

    1. Thanks so much Robin! I have dabbled a bit with HP in slab molds but definitely want to get more practice in there (but i am so fond of silicone and my slab has to be lined with freezer paper).

  15. I started out making CP soap and did that for over a year. Then one day I decided to try the HP method and have never looked back!! I would like to learn some HP swirls ūüôā

  16. Hi : Would really be interested in a tutorial on how those lovely swirl patterns are accomplished with hot process. I have been soaping with soapcalc using water as a percentage of oils. I found that cooking with anything less than 38% makes the soap chunky and dry when you attempt to mold. The more water you add however the longer you have to cure to harden the bars. 42% made my soap a little soupy with the pour. I suppose you could swirl with that consistency but my soupy soap didn’t seem to dry with the same consistency as my other HP soaps. I like the idea of adding salt to the lye water before making salt bars. You have to work really fast when adding the salt after the cook for hot process salt bars. Would like to hear you thoughts.

    1. Hi Traci! I agree that too much water causes issues, so I try my best to use the min amount of water to still get fluidity. Part of the secret is keeping all of the water you do add in there (aka no evaporation) and using things like yogurt to help with fluidity. I plan to go into more depth on this in future posts.

  17. I would love to try HP. Im new to soapmaking in general. Any suggestions for an EASY skin loving recipe?

    1. A bastile soap is a great and easy recipe to start with that is super gentle on the skin. Mostly olive oil + some castor and coconut. soap queen has a recipe on her site (it is a buttermilk bastile – i would suggest making this with water if you are doing HP for the first time). happy soaping!!

  18. Molly thank you a lot for sharing your knowledge with us, I¬īm really excited looking forward your next post on hp soaping, I¬īve tried a couple of times but it¬īs always the same result, that rustic looking. Your soaps are awesome!

  19. Molly!
    Fabulous article, wonderful comment-responses, awesome soap. I love that you are an autodidact, and student for life.
    A few questions:
    At what temperature do you pour HP.
    Are you able to achieve and maintain HP fluidity without sodium lactate?
    Do you know a vendor who supplies non-corn, non-GMO sodiun lactate? I’m deathly allergic to corn and all its derivities.
    Thank you for sharing your time and experience,

  20. Great article Molly! I found you months ago online when I was researching how to make HP smoother. I used your tips and tricks and have been loving HP ever since! Compared to CP, which I still love, clean-up is a breeze! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and you love of HP!

  21. Thanks for great article! My wife and I use a crockpot to make HP soap. The texture doesn’t seem as fine as CP, and we haven’t been able to incorporate color schemes like we have in CP. HP often ends up rough on top. What about flash points for fragrances? By the time we wait for the temp to fall below the flashpoint , it can be a challenge to flow it into the mold. We end up “glopping” it in.

    1. Hi Bob – I add my post cook additives (goat milk, colors, fragrance) once the soap drops to 180F and have no issues with losing my fluidity. good luck!

  22. Hi Molly. Since I read the article you posted about ” ditch the lid” method, that’s the only way I make my HP soap. I studies your soaps and would think ” I want mine to look that good.” Well, with lots of practice I’m getting there. The trick is, don’t give up. Keep on trying. I still get some batches where I’m not happy with the swirls but it just teaches me what not to do next time. Or not to do. Lol. Can’t wait for your next article.

    1. Thank you for your kind words MaryAnn! I hope that you find the series interesting and informative! I am nearly done with post #2.

  23. Thank you for this information!! I have just recently started cold process soaping and, like you said, I didn’t know HP can be so pretty!! Your soaps are beautiful! I can’t wait to see some tutorials.

  24. This is just the sort of thing that I love to read. I am mostly HP myself, and although I love it, I do get some frustration with my swirls…yours look beautiful. I am interested specifically in which temps you are swirling at, and your luck (if any) with natural colorants in your swirls. I really love HP and the smells and the unmolding, it’s almost spiritual !! Thanks so much for sharing, and I really look forward to your future posts.

    1. Hi Kirsten! I love to experiment with different colorants, including an array of natural colorants. I have had great luck using quite a few in HP, and regularly use paprika, annatto (a little goes a long way unless you want orange), alkanet, clays, spirulina (it fades over time) and chlorella (its great but a little goes a long way).

  25. First of all “Thank you Molly,” for sharing your experience with HP soapmaking. I’m looking forward to your next blog post. I’ve tried other methods of soapmaking like MP, CP, and re-batch. I would love to learn how to make Hot Process soap. Where do I sign up!
    Thank you Kenna for finding Molly.
    Keep up the great work ladies. ūüôā

  26. I’d love to know your thoughts on hot process with goat milk, is there a way to make 100% milk for water HP and not have it turn brown? Having looked at the temps I got when I make HP it isn’t the sugars burning, it has to be a maillard reaction but I don’t know if it can be stopped. I have goats so I want to use as much milk as possible ūüôā

    1. Yes, there is a way and I plan to cover in full detail in an upcoming post. However, I won’t make you wait if you would like to experiment a bit. I have done this using a combination of liquid goat milk and powdered goat milk – all added after the cook but in combination equal 100% goat milk. Cook the soap with water. I have never been able to cook with goat milk and have it stay white, but my soap with goat milk added after the cook in a high concentration was as wonderful as when I made this soap via CP. More details in the future post!

  27. I do swirls just like you in HP (yogurt, sodium lactate…), but I must say, I still prefer CP. I use 30-33% water and have no problem with making it, but I have found that after a few weeks, or even a month or two, the soap shrinks slightly warped as the water evaporates. I don’t like that warping. I like smooth sided of CP more. Any tips on that? Thanks. ?

    1. Martina – That is a tough question, as I have experienced the same thing at times. One of the benefits of CP is that you can really water discount to prevent shrinkage & warping, something that is tricky in HP. There is no perfect soaping method, IMHO, that tackles every soaping challenge successfully, which is why there are so many options. I like HP because of the reasons that I listed in the first post, however, HP does have a few drawbacks. I think the best plan is for each soaper to prioritize what is most important to them in a finished soap and find the method that works best for those goals.

  28. Hi Molly,
    I’ve just made my first batch of HP SOAP last night and I’m going to cut it this morning. I hope it turned out ok. I’m very new to soaping, I’ve made a few batches of M and P soap and they turned out really well.
    Thank you for this great tutorial, I look forward to reading your next articles.
    Kind regards Jacqueline Drury.:-):-)

  29. Molly:
    Can you explain what you mean when you said you use a 35% lye solution?
    For example, in one of my recipes it calls for 9 oz of Lye and 20 oz of water. (I typically use 1:2, so I discount and use 18 oz of water.)
    I know you must use a minimum of 1:1 of lye water, which would be 9 oz & 9 oz in this example. So when you say a 35% lye solution, are you adding an additional 35% of water (which would be 12.15 oz of water)? or are you referring to something else?
    Thank you for the clarification. I so enjoy your HP articles and really appreciate your sharing this information.

    1. Hi Sly,
      The 35% refers to the ratio of water to oils. It is an option in soap calc. If I used 35%, this means for 100g of oils, I would use 35g of water.

  30. Molly,
    I’m curious as to whether you use HP for 100% Castile, and how much you can discount the water for that. Thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Janie – I have dabbled in HP castile a little but I am not a huge fan – even though the soaps get rock hard quickly, they have that slimy lather which I don’t care for. I did go down to 32% water though and the soap came out fine. I may need to get some out of storage that have been aged for longer to see if the lather is better.

  31. How do you cook your HP soap in that large steel lobster pot that you posted the Amazon link to, direct heat from the stove? Can’t wait to give this a try.

  32. What kind of stick blender do you use? I have tried this method and killed 2 blenders in the prices. Is there a certain brand or watt that you need? Thanks.

  33. Hey Lady!
    I have been making soap for 16 years, I also make allot of other body product’s. I only make cold processed soap, but have been taking in wholesale orders. And would love to know how to make better use of the big batch got processed methodology.

  34. thanks for the info about cure time. on a forum people have been saying it takes just as long to cure HP soaps as CP, and i was wondering why they thought that when i’d always heard 1-2 weeks for HP soaps. now i understand from what you are saying it really depends how much water one uses. that really clears things up. really appreciate the HP posts as i’m going to start soaping soon and i’ll be doing HP. it’s a little tough to find info online about it, so i hope your posts will continue.

  35. Thank you Molly for the great tutorial in HP soap.
    I was wondering about the Sat : Unsat Ratio in hot process, should the formula has more unsaturated fatty acids to make it more fluid (same rule for Cp soap) or in HP considering this part does not affect on the fluidity?
    To make a harder bar in Hp do you recommend using palm oil or butters? which one is best for Hp to have a harder bar and more fluid for swirl?
    Thanks a lot

    1. Hi Lili – I don’t use palm oil often, however, I do use a lot of other hard oils in my soaps, primarily lard, tallow and coconut. I also add stearic acid to my soaps as it creates a creamy lather and helps with the hardness as well.

  36. Hey Molly. Great piece. I’m curious. How do you determine your soaps are done curing? Are you weighing them, and when they stop losing significant weight, they are done?

    1. Hi Jennifer, I am not that precise. I can usually tell by feeling them that they are rock hard. It usually takes 2 weeks. A little less when the humidity is very low, and a little more when humidity is high. I have a thermometer in my soap curing closet that tells me the humidity level so that I can know what to expect.

  37. Hi Molly great article. I am a newbie and can’t wait to do HP soaps. Did a class in CP and the curing period is too lengthy. I’m in the Caribbean.

  38. hi Molly, and thanks so much for all the great advice!!
    I’ve made 3 batches of HP soap following your tips, with different scents and water percentages to see what works. Also different amounts of yoghurt because the stuff we get here in india is very different from what you use, I imagine.
    Anyway, the first batch came out the best, even though I ended up adding more than twice your suggested qty of yoghurt till the paste was fluid enough to pour. the bars did take over 2 weeks to harden up enough to handle though, so I tried the last batch with a high water discount (1:1.2, lye:water), and added the rest of the liquid after the cook, all yoghurt. 1 week after cutting the bars, they’re developing cracks ūüôĀ The cracks are few but deep. Do you know why this might have happened?

  39. Hey thanks for the information, I want to start the production of soap for sell,And I think that the best process I ll go with is the hot process.i need to know the amount of each material I ll use for the production.

  40. Hi there! I just started ti majw my own soap and find your post very interesting. I have a question for you guys, maybe someone has an answer for me: can I turn a CP recipe int o a HP recipe just like that? I mean, putting together all the ingredients and then turn on the Crockpot? I just made a patch of soap just containing Coconut oil and lye, it was super-easy and turned out great. Can I do that with other oils as well? Thanks for the advice! All the best from Germany, Antje

  41. Hi Molly,
    I’m Alana a new soap maker and I love HP but I don’t add yogurt to mine to do the fluid thing I just cook till vaseline stage and add my superfats. I hate waiting for the soapy goodness and this way I get to use the soap in a week. Anyway I have 2 questions
    1. Can I add sugar to get more lather doing it this way(without the yogurt)
    2. Do you have any suggestions for a HP baby soap? expecting one in a week and just realised I dont have any soap to bathe the baby

  42. “When I have tried to make hot process soap with a high salt content, the soap got very hard quickly and I had difficulty molding the soap in a loaf mold.” How about adding the salt to the soap after you have poured it in the molds?

  43. Hi! I know Im late to the party but I was wondering what kind of mixer you use? In that kind of larger SS pot you’d need a larger stick blender, right? Thanks!

  44. Hi Molly,
    I’m having a hard time with HP soap making. It dried out very quickly, baked or crumbly. I have used up all the PKO I have plus all vegetable oil in the house and still won’t get a good result. I’m surely doing something wrong but I don’t know what it is.

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